Saturday 11 February 2012

INTRODUCING THE WINES OF GREECE - MANTINIA / MOSCHOFILERO



Though Moschofilero-Mantinia is one of Greece’s greatest grapes, and despite that Greece has the oldest wine industry in the world, the distinctive Moschofilero-Mantinia white wines (PDO Mantinia) remain undiscovered by all but the most dedicated wine enthusiasts.

Moschofilero-Mantinia won’t remain undiscovered for long. Grapes like Albariño and Pinot Grigio are hot properties today; a decade ago, few had even heard of them. And not longer ago, Riesling was a grape that most snobs would argue was only for beginners! Yet, in specific markets today, Riesling is the fastest growing grape variety, and it’s not just the beginners who are drinking it. Consumers want new flavors, and what seems to link these varieties is that, like (Moschofilero-Mantinia, they are lighter, crispier and more refreshing than the white wine styles that held sway up till now.

It’s not just that consumers are looking for something novel and different; Moschofilero-Mantinia is both to many wine drinkers. Consumers have had love affairs with certain grapes based upon those grapes’ distinctive character, whether the smooth and buttery notes of Chardonnay, the rich complexity of Pinot Noir, or now the expansive flavor profile of Riesling. Moschofilero-Mantinia is distinguished in this same manner; the grape’s wild and exotic floral intensity, along with its tangy crispness, offers a unique character and profile that explains why wine lovers are embracing this grape with lust.


All in the name

Moschofilero-Mantinia. The promise of an exotic wine experience is all in the name. The ordinary consumer looks for something familiar when studying a Greek wine label. Moschofilero-Mantinia would seem to have a leg up in that. First of all, it’s the name, itself: Moschofilero-Mantinia sounds like Muscat. In fact, it kinda tastes and smells like Muscat. So we’re good, right? Well, yes and no. Muscat is not exactly a household name, but, at least, for those who know about it, there is an expectation of bright and intense floral aromas, as well as a tangy crispness, regardless of whether it’s made in dry or off-dry style.

But the rub is that Moschofilero-Mantinia and Muscat are not at all related and, while Moschofilero-Mantinia can be remarkably floral and tangy, it can also be many other things: rosé, sparkling, full-bodied, racy, rich, light, frothy –or as dry and bitter as a dried grapefruit peel; an exotic experience that’s all in the name. There is another critical difference: Muscat has a hundred places around the globe where it offers a tasty if usually inconsequential wine. Moschofilero-Mantinia ideally belongs in one spot, and it’s all in the name; the lofty plateau of Mantinia in the north-central Peloponnese. When grown in vineyards at 2.000 feet in elevation and higher, and allowed to hang long into October, the perfume gets headier, the texture increases, and, in the hands of the excellent winemakers in Mantinia and Arcadia, the wines are unique and compelling. About 85% of Mantinia’s vineyards are planted to Moschofilero-Mantinia so there must be something compelling about the marriage and it’s all in the name.

Another advantage conferred by viticulture on a high plateau is that disease pressures can be mitigated by winds and lack of pests. So Mantinian winegrowers are particularly focused upon organic viticulture, simply because they have less need of pesticides and fungicides than their colleagues in more sheltered and humid spots. Mantinia’s triumph with newly styled Moschofilero-Mantinia has attracted attention within and outside Greece; dozen of producers have felt compelled to offer varietal bottlings to the international marketplace, and the grape name no longer seems so challenging. Moschofilero-Mantinia; success is all in the name.

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